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Kerala's famous backwaters comprise of
vast lakes and a system of narrow
canals and waterways linking them to
on e
another. Not so long ago, these
waterways served as the backbone of
Kerala's transportation. And Kumarakom
is the ideal place to experience the
backwaters. Coconut Lagoon has rightly
carved its place among the top 10
heritage resorts of the world. The
resort is on a small island and can be
reached only by boat. The
accommodation consists of individual
cottages built in the traditional
Kerala style, relying heavily on wood
and some with private pools. The
bathrooms are open to the sky and the
restaurant specializes in Kerala
cuisine peculiar to the region.
Activities here are just lazing in the
swimming pool with Jacuzzi, walks in
the nearby coconut groves or paddy
fields, sunset cruises etc.
Muted as the dawn itself, the alarm
cry of a solitary pond heron breaks
the early morning stillness as a
dugout canoe, paddled by two
fishermen, glides across the water at
a determined but unhurried pace. The
scene is idyllic, the mood dreamlike.
Kerala’s back country waterways seem
far removed from the universe most of
us inhabit, yet they are linked to the
rest of the world in a very real w ay,
and have been for at least two
millennia. In earlier times, if less
so today, these very waterways were
the staring point for the transport of
South Indian spices, which eventually
found their way to the distant shores
of Europe and beyond. Formed by the
40- odd rivers that flow down to the
Arabian Sea form the Cardamom Hills in
the Western Ghats, this network of
rivers, canals, lakes and estuaries
compromises one of India’s most
beautiful areas a rural, river in
expanse of verdant coconut groves and
rice paddies. In Malayalam, the
language of Kerala, the backwaters are
known as Kuttanad, "the land of the
short people," a reference, perhaps,
to the face that the farmers seen
working here are often knee-deep in
paddy fields,
For centuries the backwaters have
provided a safe and efficient means of
transportation for goods and people
moving between the interior and the
port towns along the coast, Even
today, coconuts, pepper, coir, rice,
and other such products of the region
are carried along these waterways in
traditional boats called Kettuvallam
(stitched canoes), and village
children are ferried off to school in
all sorts of country craft.
Location:
10 Kms from Kottayam, 78 Kms from
Cochin. Direct ferry from Casino
Hotel, Cochin, also travel half - way
by road and take the ferry from
Tanneermukkam jetty or Kumarakom.
The
Restaurant:
Cited
in Arundhati Roy’s Booker Prize –
winning best-seller, "the God of Small
thing," the restaurant at Coconut
Lagoon is renewed as much for its
superb Kerala cuisine (vegetarian and
no vegetarian alike) as for its
authentic setting, and is housed in
one of the resort’s
most
impressive Tharavadu. Known as
Ettukettu, the building incorporates
two atriun-like courtyards under an
expansive tile roof supported by
dozens o slim columns, a design that
enables the space within to benefit
from the slightest breeze. The
restaurant is the oldest Structure at
Coconut Lagoon, and it, too, formerly
belonged to a prominent Malayalee
Family living in a nearby village.
Cuisine: Ethnic and international
(buffet).
The Accommodation:
14 Heritage Mansions, 28 Heritage
Bungalows. Though some of the cottages
are of more recent vintage, many are
well over a century old and a few
actually date back to the early 1700s.
The resort can only be reached by boat
and its accommodation consists of
individual cottages called Tharavadu,
the traditional wooden house of Kerala.
Coconut Lagoon's cottages feature
ultramodern bathrooms, each located in
an inner courtyard boasting its own
banana tree. Through all the cottages
vary in configuration, and some of the
air-conditioned units are newly built
replicas in corporation only fragments
of old Tharavadu that could not be
saved in their entirety, Coconut
Lagoon offers two basic types of
accommodation: Heritage Mansion and
Heritage Bungalows. The former has two
stories, the upstairs bedroom gallery
offering particularly magnificent
views of Lake Vembanad. The latter are
more compact, single – level cottages.
Both are furnished in Aiyny and Jack
Woods, and retain all the charm of
original family homes, with thick,
solid doors, intricate window
carvings, and terra cotta tile floors.
Structurally necessary alterations
have been carried out with consummate
discretion, i.e., in keeping with the
style and décor of the era, and great
attention has been paid to very
detail. The lamp stands in each
Tharavadu, for example, having been
carved from old wooden hinges.
Traditionally, of course, Keralites
bathed in the rivers – in rural areas
many people still do – but Coconut
Lagoon’s cottages feature ultramodern
bathrooms, each located in an inner
courtyard boasting its own banana (or
coconut) tree, so you can shower al
fresco under a starlit sky in complete
and utter privacy.
Recreation :
The Cashew Shaped pool, slightly
elevated to give a commanding view is
popular including the honeymoon
couples who swim there in the early
evening to the sounds of Indian
classical music drifting across from
the Garden Café. For those who prefer
not to venture beyond the bounds of
the resort itself, there are plenty of
things to do. Simple bamboo fishing
poles are available, too, and though
the restaurant offers many fine
seafood dishes on its ever-varied
lunch and dinner menus, the chef
nonetheless promises to cook any fish
an angler catches from the lagoon. Be
warned, however, that no prizes are
given for catching a monster from the
fish farm within the confines of the
hotel, though no punishment is meted
out for doing so, either. |